This took more than 5 minutes.
WD-40 is excellent for cleaning carbs.
Not wery cheap but I think worth every cent
The old one hasn't been accelerating anything for the last 20 years, it was so stuck I had to use a small hammer to get it out. Also known as diaphragm or membrane pump. This is one of those many things that separate K7 from earlier models, they dont have it. I do.
Nobody wanted to buy this old seat at a swap meet and it pissed me off so much that I restored it completely and sold the new plastic replica seat at a swap meet. Rusty from top..
...to bottom
I mean very rusty
Never seen rusted leather before
Removing rust with electricity, very effective, called electrolysis
Also the paint took off, which was nice.
Rust is gone but now there is a black coating that has to be removed before powdercoating
Not bad, it starts to look like a seatpan
Nothing is more important than well organized working area
Seat also needed some refurbishing, I used canvas.
Pan was broken from both sides, too thin to use MIG-welding so I used spotwelding. Here You can see how the rust is removed from those badly corroted places by electrolysis
Support piece in place with locking pliers
Never done spotwelding before and if I can do it anyone can.
Waiting to be powdercoated
Well this wouldn't rust anymore
I had to use glue to attach the new seatcover, the old fasteners were too worn out.
It was much harder to find the chrometape than to attach it
That's it and I hope I never ever have to do that again.
Camchain and tensioners were worn out
and as You can see CMSNL-image
and as You can see CMSNL-image
and as You can see CMSNL-image
and as You can see CMSNL-image
This is what it should look like, the original image of Honda CB750 K7 1977....
..and this is what it really looked like, yes I know it looked rather nice from distance...there are still these moments when I wish I'd kept my distance..
..and this is what it looks like now after 13 months.
First paint then stripes which are like big stickers (and by the way wrong colour for this bike, thank You germans, that orange stripe should be red) and finally lacquer paint, yes I know should have bought new emblems also but 70 € a piece, I think these do just fine, at least for a while.
Lot of cleaning, perhaps sodablasting and of course painting and that's only the outside...
a rolling chassis
After sodablasting and washing it looks much better
After sodablasting and washing it looks much better
Standard pistons are in good condition and after thorough cleaning look like new.
Example of oversize piston
After sodablasting
Cylinder before sodablasting...
..and after.
After sodablasting
After painting...
After painting...
After painting...
After painting...
After painting...
After Tig welding...
When assembling the lifterplate, put two longer bolts to opposite holes and pull the clutch together, hold it there and put the original bolts to those empty holes and gently put some pressure to the springs , done this replace long bolts with normal bolts and start tightening 1/4 turn/bolt.
New exhaust and mufflers, ordered from CMSNL, had to say that because I use their image, new bolts, pillions with brackets and of course these are totally different than those on K0-K6
This kit is a very good choice
After assembly the clutch was sort of slack and we found out that one plate was missing, that nr.6 called plate B doesn't include to the clutch kit, so we used the old one.
   
 
Suomeksiin english
   

Honda CB 750 K7

The number of visitors has grown so much that I decided to make this site a little easier to read.
 

 



Workshop Manual and other useful information

.
K7 pegs are round and attached above the mufflers, K0- K6 pegs are square and attached between mufflers

I accidently found quite a rare book from UK (Ebay of course): Original CB 750 K7 and F2 Workshop manual, 100 pages accurate information (finally) just these two models. I divided it into 19 parts (PDF) so it is easier to read and download.

The book deals mostly with the F2 model, but they are so similar that if there is any difference compared to K7 model, it is always mentioned separately.
Part 0 is K7 only and the rest, 1 to 19 is for both K7 & F2

 
 
 
0.
1. 2. 3. 4.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
5.
6. 7. 8. 9.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
10.
11. 12. 13. 14.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
15.
16. 17. 18. 19.  
 
 
Other usefull stuff: Classic Bike dossier (pdf 2.5 Mb), wiring diagram: simple (pdf 137 Kb) and not so simple (pdf 918 Kb),
Steelo (NZ) made this nice online owners manual.
 
Here are torque tables: engine, frame, general for CB750 and here is a self made torque converter also because it was rather frustrating to convert lb ft to Nm or kgm depending on where You found the torque table and now You can find the right values from the Workshop manual.